Deck Permit Drawings: What to Include and How to Prepare Them

Deck permit drawings are a set of scaled, fully dimensioned plans that show your building department where the deck sits on your lot and how it is built. Most offices want a site plan, a framing and foundation plan, and construction details for the connections, guards and stairs. Below is what each sheet needs, who is allowed to draw it, and the mistakes that send plans back for corrections.

TL;DR

• A typical permit set has three parts: a site plan with setbacks, a framing and foundation plan, and details for connections, guards and stairs.
• Every drawing should be to scale and fully dimensioned, with real materials and sizes instead of vague notes such as “per code.”
• Requirements vary by city and county, so check your own building department’s handout before you draw anything.
• Taller decks, hot tubs, stacked levels and unusual ledger attachments often require a licensed engineer or architect.
• Clean drawings are what we build from too: we design, draw and build in-house for Everett-area homeowners.

Table of Contents

• Do you need drawings at all?
• The three sheets in a typical deck permit set
• What the site plan has to show
• The framing and foundation plan
• Guards, handrails and stairs
• Who is allowed to draw the plans?
• How to make plans a reviewer can approve
• After approval: inspections still apply
• Let us draw and build it for you
• FAQ
• Sources

Do you need drawings at all?

Not every deck needs a permit, and a deck that needs no permit needs no drawings. The thresholds are local, though, and they are lower than many homeowners expect.

In Everett, Washington, the city’s residential deck handout says a building permit is required if the deck is attached to a building, more than 30 inches above the ground, more than 200 square feet, or serves the main exit. Height is measured up to 5 feet away from the deck. Minneapolis uses a similar test: a permit is required when a deck is more than 30 inches above grade, attached to the main structure, or part of an accessible route.

A deck attached to your house almost always lands in permit territory, because attachment alone triggers it in both cities. If you are replacing an old deck, expect the same rules to apply to the new one. Our guide to deck permit requirements for homeowners walks through what to check before you start.

The three sheets in a typical deck permit set

Offices word it differently, but nearly every residential deck submittal comes down to three groups of drawings.

Minneapolis describes the package as a scaled, dimensioned site plan, deck plans and details, and a side-view section, with materials, structural components and connections shown. Everett’s list is the same in substance: a site plan, a framing and foundation plan, and deck details.

What the site plan has to show

The site plan is the sheet reviewers check first, because it decides whether the deck is allowed where you want it.

A good site plan shows:

• The outline of your lot with property lines and their lengths.
• The house and any other structures, such as a shed, garage or pool.
• Site features that affect the build, including easements, slopes, trees you will remove, and the location of utilities if your office asks for them.
• The footprint of the new deck, with its length and width.
• The distance from each side of the deck to the nearest property line and to adjacent structures.

The Minneapolis guidelines say the site plan should show existing structures and site features, the proposed deck’s location and size, and distances to property lines and adjacent structures.

Setbacks and angled lot lines

Setbacks are the single most common reason a site plan comes back. Everett’s handout states that decks cannot be located inside the rear or side yard setbacks, and it points owners to the Planning department to confirm the numbers for their property. Setbacks differ by zone, so do not borrow a number from a neighbor or a website.

If your lot has an angled boundary, measure carefully. Lenexa, Kansas, notes that setbacks on angled property lines are measured perpendicular from the property line to the nearest point of the structure. Measuring from a corner of the house instead of the true closest point of the deck is an easy way to draw a deck that looks compliant and is not.

Some jurisdictions add a separate zoning review on top of the building review. Bedford, Massachusetts, for example, requires zoning review for setbacks and other zoning criteria, and visible decks in its Historic District need review before a building permit is issued. If you live in a historic district or an HOA, ask about extra approvals early. For local setback specifics, see our article on Everett deck setback rules.

If you are still working out the size and shape that fits your yard, the deck design consultation guide is a good place to turn a rough idea into something that can be drawn. Size also drives budget, and a breakdown of deck building cost by size and material helps you settle the footprint before the site plan is drawn.

The framing and foundation plan

This is the structural heart of the set. A reviewer should be able to read it and know exactly what the crew will put in the ground and above it.

Minneapolis asks plans to show footing type, depth and width; post, beam and joist sizes, locations and spacing; ledger attachment; connectors; and the dimensions and materials of guards, handrails and stairs. Everett’s list is specific about each member:

• Decking material: wood or composite, named on the plan.
• Joists: size, wood species, spacing and span.
• Ledger: size and species, if the deck attaches to the building.
• Beams: size, species, spacing and span.
• Posts: size, species, spacing and post height.
• Concrete footings: size, thickness and depth. Everett’s handout states that precast blocks are not permitted.

That last point is a good example of why a generic plan downloaded from the internet can fail. A drawing that shows blocks on grade may be fine in one place and rejected in another.

Footings and frost depth

Footing depth is set locally, because it depends on frost and soil. The footing depth shown on your drawing should be the depth your own office requires. Calgary, Canada, shows how serious this can be: it requires an engineer’s design review when a deck foundation is less than 1.2 metres deep, to prevent frost-heave damage. Your U.S. jurisdiction will have its own rule, so use its number, not ours or anyone else’s.

The ledger and other attachments

The ledger is the board that ties the deck to the house, and reviewers look hard at it. Bedford requires attachment details that show connections of posts to footings, the deck to the house, posts to beams, and the rail system to posts. Draw each one as a detail, with the fastener type, size and spacing.

Note also that Everett requires a licensed architect or engineer when the ledger attaches to house overhangs, bay windows, brick, stone or concrete block. A ledger drawn onto a bay window by a homeowner will not pass.

Guards, handrails and stairs

Plans must show the parts of the deck people lean on and walk down, not only the frame. Everett’s list calls for guard height, post spacing and picket spacing, plus stairs, handrails and landings where they exist.

The details to put on paper:

1. Guard height and how posts are attached to the framing.
2. Picket or infill spacing, with the dimension written out.
3. Handrail height, shape and mounting.
4. Stair width, rise and run, number of risers, and the landing at the bottom.
5. Stair stringer material, size and how it connects to the deck and the ground.

Guards and handrails are not the same thing, and mixing them up on a drawing is a classic correction item. Our article on guardrail versus handrail code explains the difference, and our deck stairs code guide covers IRC stair requirements in more detail. If you want railings and stairs designed and built together, see our deck railing systems and deck stairs services.

Who is allowed to draw the plans?

In many places you can draw your own, as long as the deck is simple. Everett says plans that follow the prescriptive method in 2021 IRC Section R507 can be prepared by you or a design professional when a licensed architect or engineer is not required. Clarington, Ontario, takes a similar view: homeowner drawings are acceptable if drawn to scale and accurately describing the construction, while designs by others must come from qualified people.

Everett requires a licensed architect or engineer when any of these is true:

• The deck has more than one level.
• It will carry a hot tub, spa or other heavy load, including heavy coverings such as pavers.
• The walking surface is more than 14 feet above the ground.
• The ledger attaches to overhangs, bay windows, brick, stone or concrete block.
• The deck bears on ground steeper than 1:1.
• The design falls outside the prescriptive method.

If your project is on that list, plan for engineered drawings from the start. We explain the timeline in our piece on engineered deck plans.

How to make plans a reviewer can approve

Reviewers spend a short time on each set. Plans that are easy to read get approved faster.

Draw to scale and dimension everything. Bedford advises homeowners to draw to scale, dimension fully, show actual site conditions, materials and methods, and avoid generic notes like “per code.” Meriden, Connecticut, likewise requires all plans to be fully dimensioned.

Name the real materials. Write “2x10 pressure-treated Hem-Fir joists at 16 inches on center,” not “joists per span table.” If you choose composite, name the product and its fastening system.

Use your office’s own handout. Local offices often publish a checklist and sample drawings, and some use their own standard drawing numbers for site plans. Follow them rather than a generic template.

Expect questions. Bedford’s building official may ask for additional information for unique circumstances or framing methods. A sloped lot, an old house or an unusual railing system are the usual triggers. A fast reply keeps the review moving.

Check the administrative items. Some counties ask for proof that taxes are paid or that contractors hold business licenses. Warren County, Virginia, for example, asks for verification of paid county taxes and proof of business licenses with a deck application.

A pre-submittal checklist

• Site plan with property lines, setbacks confirmed with Planning, and deck footprint dimensioned.
• Framing plan with every member sized, spaced and named by species.
• Footing size, thickness and depth that match local rules.
• Ledger and connection details drawn separately.
• Guard, handrail and stair details with dimensions.
• Side-view section showing height above grade.
• Engineer or architect stamp if any trigger above applies.

After approval: inspections still apply

A permit is only the start. Everett’s handout says you can build the deck yourself or hire a contractor, but the deck must be built to current code and inspected throughout construction. The project is not finished until the permit status shows as finaled after a successful final inspection. Build exactly what the drawings show. If the field conditions force a change, get the revision approved before you cover the work.

Our view on deck drawings

We see the same pattern on many Snohomish County projects: the deck itself is rarely the problem, the paperwork is. A drawing set with a missing setback dimension or a vague ledger note can cost weeks, and those weeks arrive right when a family hoped to be using the deck.

That is why we treat design and drawings as part of the build, not a separate chore. Our process runs from consultation through construction in one clear sequence, with our own in-house build crew rather than subcontractors. The people who draw the structure are the people who answer for how it is built, so details such as footings, ledger attachment and stairs are drawn the way they will actually be assembled.

We also work with composite, PVC and cedar, and with eco-conscious materials suited to the Northwest climate. Naming the exact product on the plans keeps the review clean and the finished deck matching what you approved. Our installations are backed by a warranty, and we handle permitting so you are not left decoding a municipal checklist on your own.

If you are weighing a DIY set against a contractor-prepared one, choose the route that gives you a buildable plan and a clear path to final inspection. For most homeowners with a house-attached deck, that is the one where design, permit and construction sit under one roof.

Vlad

Let us draw and build it for you

If you live in Everett, Marysville or the surrounding area, we can take the drawings off your plate. We start with a Everett deck design service consultation, turn it into a buildable plan, handle the permit submittal, and build it with our own crew. Whether you need a new deck installation service, a deck replacement or a fully new deck installation service, we begin with the plan.

Want to see finished work? Take a look at our composite deck replacement with gated stairs in Everett, or contact us through our site to start a conversation about your deck.

FAQ

Can I draw my own deck permit plans?

Often yes, for a simple deck. Everett allows homeowners to prepare plans that follow the prescriptive 2021 IRC Section R507 method, unless a trigger such as a hot tub, a second level or a high walking surface requires an engineer or architect. Your drawings still need to be to scale, fully dimensioned and specific about materials.

Do I need a survey for the site plan?

Not always, but you need accurate property lines and distances. If your lot corners are unclear or your deck sits near a setback line, a survey or recorded plat removes the guesswork. Ask your building department what it accepts as a base for the site plan.

What is the difference between a site plan and a deck plan?

The site plan is the view from above of your whole lot, showing the house, property lines and the deck’s distance to them. The deck plan, often called the framing and foundation plan, shows the structure itself: footings, posts, beams, joists, ledger and decking.

Do replacement decks need new drawings?

Usually, yes, if the new deck meets a permit trigger such as attachment to the house or height above 30 inches. Codes change, so a replacement is reviewed against the current code, not the one your old deck was built under. Confirm with your local office whether a like-for-like rebuild has special rules.

How long does plan review take?

It depends on the office and its workload, and complete drawings move faster than ones that prompt correction requests. Check your building department’s website for current review times rather than relying on a general estimate.

Sources

• City of Everett, Residential Deck Handout
• City of Minneapolis, Decks at single-family and two-family dwellings
• Town of Bedford, Massachusetts, Decks guide
• City of Lenexa, Residential Decks guidelines
• City of Calgary, Uncovered Deck permit checklist
• Municipality of Clarington, Decks
• City of Meriden, Deck and porch plan requirements
• Warren County, Virginia, Deck guidelines
• Deck building cost by size and material

Recommended

• Deck Permit Requirements for Homeowners: What to Check
• Homeowners: Engineered Deck Plans Stamped 1–2 Weeks With Design Build
• Avoid Permit Delays in Everett: 42 Inch Deck Setback Rules
• Deck Stairs Code: IRC Requirements and Compliance Guide